 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Mr Stromberg Carbs - Quality re-manufactured / rebuilt carbs and setups. Specializing in Stromberg 97 / 48 / 81's |
Myth or Fact?
I have !@#$%^ 94's on my engine (Flathead/SBS/Nailhead/etc.), and it just wants to
run rich even at idle, I rebuilt them (or a competent shop) and they still do it can you
help? - We get at least 4 to 6 calls a day with this most common question. We prefer
Strombergs (97s and 48's) over the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove (94) carbs for a
couple of reasons especially on multi-carb installations. One is in the throttle base
and the other is the power valves. The Stromberg throttle base seems to have better
machine work on the throttle valves and the throttle bores in that they don’t stick
when coming off idle at a stop light. This makes for smooth throttle openings besides
returning to idle without sticking. The other advantage and biggest, in our opinion, is
the Stromberg’s power circuit. Strombergs use mechanically operated brass power
valves instead of vacuum operated diaphragm power valves as found in the
Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove carbs (94's). When using multiple carbs the manifold
vacuum is usually low. This contributes to premature opening of the vacuum
controlled power valve. It’s not uncommon to find these valves opening with less than
partial throttle applications since almost any drop in vacuum is enough to make them
operate. As can visioned, this leads to a rich condition when it’s not needed. It’s
impossible to compensate for this over rich condition by reducing the main jets
because when these vacuum power valves open it’s the same as increasing the
main jet size 10 whole numbers~ No wonder they always run rich! The Stromberg’s
mechanical power valve operates mechanically and is relatively unaffected by low
vacuum. This eliminates the over rich conditions that are caused by the power valve
opening too soon or when it’s not needed. Yes you can "block" the power valves on
94's but at what cost? Power when you need it! That doesn't make a whole lot of
sense does it?
For these 2 reasons alone we do not rebuild, re-manufacture, or sell 94's. We would
be happy to quote you replacement Strombergs for your application, regrettably we
do not take 94's in on trade/core.
Kitting a carb is as good as reconditioning / rebuilding it - In most cases kitting a carb
will do little for it. Keep in mind these carbs originally were produced in 1932 (so 75+
years ago). If the carb hasn't been run much in that time then all kinds of things have
built up in the passages of the carb (we have seen wasps nests, mouse droppings,
spider webs, dirt, amongst other things). If the carb has been run its entire life then
most likely there is a film build-up of varnish on everything inside the carb. The
emulsion tubes are probably clogged. This is the most overlooked item in rebuilding
Strombergs. It does require a special tap and puller, but it is a necessity 75% of the
carbs we rebuild have these either partially or totally blocked. These are fairly large
passages, just imagine what the smaller ones are like that your can't see. This is
why we fully disassemble the carbs for reconditioning / rebuilding and ultra-sonically
clean them. Boiling the carbs does damage to them by warping the castings. Ultra-
sonically cleaning them gets them clean even in the most minute crevasses.
All Strombergs leak - not true, they are by design not leak proof, as no carb is. The
felt around the airhorn/accelerator pump is made of felt and thus is not a gasket per
se. However leaks anywhere else is probably either due to the gasket surfaces not
being clean / level to the mating part. Tighten the screws can possibly make this
problem worse since you are warping the air horn by tightening them more than the
Stromberg recommended 2-3 INCH pounds (not foot pounds)....This explains why so
many carb bodies have stripped threads. Many leaking problems can be traced back
to running to much fuel pressure. All Stromberg 97/48/81 should only be run at 2 - 2
1/2 lbs of pressure. Even a stock flathead fuel pump will put out 4lbs at high rpm.
Stock small block Chevy's fuel pumps put out 6-8lbs, way to much for Strombergs. A
good quality fuel pressure regulator and gauge should be used with all Stromberg
carbs.
Tightening the air horn screws will stop it from leaking - if might temporarily but
ultimately it will warp the air horn and cause more leaking
Multi-Carb setups are problematic - Only to the uneducated. Our 2x2v4 and 3x2v4
setups are as simple as it gets. Unbolt your 4 barrel carb and bolt on 2 or 3 deuces.
In most cases you will even get better gas mileage. Stromberg 3x2 setups for SBC
will in most cases result in better mileage (using progressive linkage), if you keep
your foot out of it! Getting the proper adjustment to the progressive linkage is the
hardest part. Honestly this has more to do with how you drive than the carbs.
Strombergs and Ford / Chandler Grove / 94's are almost identical - FALSE! Nothing
could be further from the truth. They don't flow the same CFM. 94's use a rubber
based "power valve" and 97's don't have a power valve (per se), they have a power-
by-pass valve that is mechanical not invoked based on vacuum. 94's rubber power-
valves get brittle over time and leak (blew the power valve). We have had more
people replace their 94's with 97's than have bought new setups. Why? Because
they keep blowing the power-valves, they are a pain to replace, their cars are
running rich because of the blow valve, or vacuum is causing the 94 power valves to
actuate. Multi-Carb 94's will draw to little vacuum and activate the power-valve in
most applications (the carb thinks its under a load), thus causing a run rich condition,
even at idle. This problem gets worse the more you "build" your engine, inasmuch
as high performance engines tend to have low vacuum at idle. 97's do not have this
problem, and thus are considered by hot rodders the premium carb for multi-carb
applications.
94's are better than 97's - This all depends on your setup. We believe there are
more multiple applications that meet with the requirements of 97's/48's than 94's. If
you are trying to go "stock" then by all means be sure you put the matching carb to
you car. If you are going to drive your car and not worry about authenticity then use
97's/48's.
Chroming Carbs ruins them - Depends on the chromer. Most do not do a good job of
chroming carbs to start with. Secondly the chrome builds up in the air and gas
passages within the carb...it is almost impossible to remove. This reduces air / gas
flows at idle and high speed, it also reduces the actual venturi opening thus reducing
effective CFM.
1 is OK, 2 is better, 3 is great, more is better - See our CFM calculator page. The
most common / biggest mistake people make is "Over-Carbing" an engine.
Remember an engine is a big pump, if you have to much going in you won't get it out.
The result is a rich running engine. Be honest with yourself when using the CFM
calculator. Most engines don't run 100% volumetric efficiency they run more around
the 80% mark at best. If you aren't going to run the engine at 5,000 rpm don't fool
yourself in to thinking you are. Most common run between idle and 3,500.
6x2's are a pain and hard to get to work right - So not true! Not only do you get great
looks, but the performance is outstanding. Worried about gas mileage? Then block
off the corner carbs and then you have economy and looks
Sure you can use and HEI with 3x2's and 6x2's - Not true period. You must use an
older style points distributor. You can then convert it to electronic ignition via a
Pertronix kit. The HEI distributors are just to large to fit between the rear carb and
housing.
Straight Linkage vs. Progressive - In most cases - Straight linkage for Flatheads and
progressive linkage for SBC's. Most flathead intakes are not of an open plenum
design, if you run progressive in this case you are starving the cylinders above the
secondary carb most of the time. You will be running lean on the rear cylinders and
rich on the front cylinders...this doesn't make for a long lasting engine. In addition
Flatheads don't really "breath" that well to start with so you are choking half the
engine.
In all 3x2 cases that we have run across for the street a SBC should always be run
with progressive linkage. Keep in mind progressive linkage is adjustable, if the need
truly arises that you need straight linkage (all opening at the same time) you can
adjust the linkage "simply" to get the effect of straight linkage.
On our 2x2 setups for a SBC, we suggest straight linkage.
Why do you ask about elevation on your Get Your Quote Page? - Actually its pretty
simple. The jets in a carb are a metering device. The carbs are "standardized" at
sea level. At higher altitudes the air is thinner and thus the carb/engine needs more
air / less gas to maintain performance. Thus we use smaller numbered jets at higher
than sea level altitudes.
Do you have more questions, myth to dis-spell email us, we promise to answer!
I have !@#$%^ 94's on my engine (Flathead/SBS/Nailhead/etc.), and it just wants to
run rich even at idle, I rebuilt them (or a competent shop) and they still do it can you
help? - We get at least 4 to 6 calls a day with this most common question. We prefer
Strombergs (97s and 48's) over the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove (94) carbs for a
couple of reasons especially on multi-carb installations. One is in the throttle base
and the other is the power valves. The Stromberg throttle base seems to have better
machine work on the throttle valves and the throttle bores in that they don’t stick
when coming off idle at a stop light. This makes for smooth throttle openings besides
returning to idle without sticking. The other advantage and biggest, in our opinion, is
the Stromberg’s power circuit. Strombergs use mechanically operated brass power
valves instead of vacuum operated diaphragm power valves as found in the
Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove carbs (94's). When using multiple carbs the manifold
vacuum is usually low. This contributes to premature opening of the vacuum
controlled power valve. It’s not uncommon to find these valves opening with less than
partial throttle applications since almost any drop in vacuum is enough to make them
operate. As can visioned, this leads to a rich condition when it’s not needed. It’s
impossible to compensate for this over rich condition by reducing the main jets
because when these vacuum power valves open it’s the same as increasing the
main jet size 10 whole numbers~ No wonder they always run rich! The Stromberg’s
mechanical power valve operates mechanically and is relatively unaffected by low
vacuum. This eliminates the over rich conditions that are caused by the power valve
opening too soon or when it’s not needed. Yes you can "block" the power valves on
94's but at what cost? Power when you need it! That doesn't make a whole lot of
sense does it?
For these 2 reasons alone we do not rebuild, re-manufacture, or sell 94's. We would
be happy to quote you replacement Strombergs for your application, regrettably we
do not take 94's in on trade/core.
Kitting a carb is as good as reconditioning / rebuilding it - In most cases kitting a carb
will do little for it. Keep in mind these carbs originally were produced in 1932 (so 75+
years ago). If the carb hasn't been run much in that time then all kinds of things have
built up in the passages of the carb (we have seen wasps nests, mouse droppings,
spider webs, dirt, amongst other things). If the carb has been run its entire life then
most likely there is a film build-up of varnish on everything inside the carb. The
emulsion tubes are probably clogged. This is the most overlooked item in rebuilding
Strombergs. It does require a special tap and puller, but it is a necessity 75% of the
carbs we rebuild have these either partially or totally blocked. These are fairly large
passages, just imagine what the smaller ones are like that your can't see. This is
why we fully disassemble the carbs for reconditioning / rebuilding and ultra-sonically
clean them. Boiling the carbs does damage to them by warping the castings. Ultra-
sonically cleaning them gets them clean even in the most minute crevasses.
All Strombergs leak - not true, they are by design not leak proof, as no carb is. The
felt around the airhorn/accelerator pump is made of felt and thus is not a gasket per
se. However leaks anywhere else is probably either due to the gasket surfaces not
being clean / level to the mating part. Tighten the screws can possibly make this
problem worse since you are warping the air horn by tightening them more than the
Stromberg recommended 2-3 INCH pounds (not foot pounds)....This explains why so
many carb bodies have stripped threads. Many leaking problems can be traced back
to running to much fuel pressure. All Stromberg 97/48/81 should only be run at 2 - 2
1/2 lbs of pressure. Even a stock flathead fuel pump will put out 4lbs at high rpm.
Stock small block Chevy's fuel pumps put out 6-8lbs, way to much for Strombergs. A
good quality fuel pressure regulator and gauge should be used with all Stromberg
carbs.
Tightening the air horn screws will stop it from leaking - if might temporarily but
ultimately it will warp the air horn and cause more leaking
Multi-Carb setups are problematic - Only to the uneducated. Our 2x2v4 and 3x2v4
setups are as simple as it gets. Unbolt your 4 barrel carb and bolt on 2 or 3 deuces.
In most cases you will even get better gas mileage. Stromberg 3x2 setups for SBC
will in most cases result in better mileage (using progressive linkage), if you keep
your foot out of it! Getting the proper adjustment to the progressive linkage is the
hardest part. Honestly this has more to do with how you drive than the carbs.
Strombergs and Ford / Chandler Grove / 94's are almost identical - FALSE! Nothing
could be further from the truth. They don't flow the same CFM. 94's use a rubber
based "power valve" and 97's don't have a power valve (per se), they have a power-
by-pass valve that is mechanical not invoked based on vacuum. 94's rubber power-
valves get brittle over time and leak (blew the power valve). We have had more
people replace their 94's with 97's than have bought new setups. Why? Because
they keep blowing the power-valves, they are a pain to replace, their cars are
running rich because of the blow valve, or vacuum is causing the 94 power valves to
actuate. Multi-Carb 94's will draw to little vacuum and activate the power-valve in
most applications (the carb thinks its under a load), thus causing a run rich condition,
even at idle. This problem gets worse the more you "build" your engine, inasmuch
as high performance engines tend to have low vacuum at idle. 97's do not have this
problem, and thus are considered by hot rodders the premium carb for multi-carb
applications.
94's are better than 97's - This all depends on your setup. We believe there are
more multiple applications that meet with the requirements of 97's/48's than 94's. If
you are trying to go "stock" then by all means be sure you put the matching carb to
you car. If you are going to drive your car and not worry about authenticity then use
97's/48's.
Chroming Carbs ruins them - Depends on the chromer. Most do not do a good job of
chroming carbs to start with. Secondly the chrome builds up in the air and gas
passages within the carb...it is almost impossible to remove. This reduces air / gas
flows at idle and high speed, it also reduces the actual venturi opening thus reducing
effective CFM.
1 is OK, 2 is better, 3 is great, more is better - See our CFM calculator page. The
most common / biggest mistake people make is "Over-Carbing" an engine.
Remember an engine is a big pump, if you have to much going in you won't get it out.
The result is a rich running engine. Be honest with yourself when using the CFM
calculator. Most engines don't run 100% volumetric efficiency they run more around
the 80% mark at best. If you aren't going to run the engine at 5,000 rpm don't fool
yourself in to thinking you are. Most common run between idle and 3,500.
6x2's are a pain and hard to get to work right - So not true! Not only do you get great
looks, but the performance is outstanding. Worried about gas mileage? Then block
off the corner carbs and then you have economy and looks
Sure you can use and HEI with 3x2's and 6x2's - Not true period. You must use an
older style points distributor. You can then convert it to electronic ignition via a
Pertronix kit. The HEI distributors are just to large to fit between the rear carb and
housing.
Straight Linkage vs. Progressive - In most cases - Straight linkage for Flatheads and
progressive linkage for SBC's. Most flathead intakes are not of an open plenum
design, if you run progressive in this case you are starving the cylinders above the
secondary carb most of the time. You will be running lean on the rear cylinders and
rich on the front cylinders...this doesn't make for a long lasting engine. In addition
Flatheads don't really "breath" that well to start with so you are choking half the
engine.
In all 3x2 cases that we have run across for the street a SBC should always be run
with progressive linkage. Keep in mind progressive linkage is adjustable, if the need
truly arises that you need straight linkage (all opening at the same time) you can
adjust the linkage "simply" to get the effect of straight linkage.
On our 2x2 setups for a SBC, we suggest straight linkage.
Why do you ask about elevation on your Get Your Quote Page? - Actually its pretty
simple. The jets in a carb are a metering device. The carbs are "standardized" at
sea level. At higher altitudes the air is thinner and thus the carb/engine needs more
air / less gas to maintain performance. Thus we use smaller numbered jets at higher
than sea level altitudes.
Do you have more questions, myth to dis-spell email us, we promise to answer!
To get yours call
us at
913-244-0112 or
fill out your quote
page
us at
913-244-0112 or
fill out your quote
page
Mr Stromberg
Phone: 913-244-0112
Phone: 913-244-0112
 |  |  |  |
